Does a $200 moisturizer actually work better than a $20 one? And when a skincare product says “clean,” “natural,” or “non-toxic”…does that actually mean anything? In this episode of Wellness Explained, Sandy is joined by Shelly Hokanson, certified cosmetic formulator and founder of Geek Out of Water, to separate skincare science from marketing. They talk about what ingredient lists can, and can't, tell us, why more actives aren't necessarily better, how to recognize signs of an unhappy skin barrier, and what actually deserves a place in a simple skincare routine. Plus, Sandy puts cleanser, moisturizer, vitamin C, eye cream, and sunscreen through a rapid-fire SAVE or SPLURGE. If you've ever looked at a shelf full of skincare products and wondered, “Okay…but what do I actually need?”...this episode is for you.
Skincare has become increasingly complicated.
We're told to layer serums, rotate actives, protect our skin barrier, use retinoids, add vitamin C, avoid certain ingredients, and somehow figure out whether the $200 product is actually better than the $20 one.
But does good skincare really need to be that complicated?
In this episode, Sandy sits down with Shelly Hokanson, certified cosmetic formulator and founder of Geek Out of Water, to talk about what actually matters when choosing skincare, and how to become a smarter consumer without needing a degree in cosmetic chemistry.
Shelly's background in media literacy has shaped the way she approaches skincare: Who made this product? What's actually in it? What does the company want us to believe about it? And most importantly, what evidence supports the claim?
Shelly Hokanson is a certified cosmetic formulator, professor in the School of Media Arts & Design at James Madison University, and founder of Geek Out of Water (GOOW). With nearly three decades in the classroom and a decade creating content on YouTube, Shelly brings her background in media literacy to the world of skincare, helping consumers better understand ingredients, formulation, cosmetic science, and the marketing behind the products they buy. Her work focuses on making skincare education approachable and empowering people to become more informed consumers.
Vitamin C forms:
L-Ascorbic Acid
THDA: Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
MAP: Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate
Phenoxyethanol: Shelly discusses using this common preservative as a helpful reference point when looking at where highlighted ingredients appear on an ingredient list. She also notes an important caveat: some effective ingredients are intentionally used at concentrations below 1%, so placement alone doesn't tell the whole story. Pasted text
Free Ingredient Literacy Guide:
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Geek Out of Water / GOOW:
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